any of these look like a good buy? [Archive] (2024)

MX-5 Miata Forum > All Miatas > Pricing and Dealer Discussion > any of these look like a good buy?

PDA

View Full Version : any of these look like a good buy?

NickPic83

17th October 2012, 20:21

here are a couple current ones i am looking at, let me know what u guys think
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3310641850.html -1.6..spoke to the guy he put lots of new parts in it recently and said $2900 and i havent even talked to him in person
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3291870911.html -1.6...kinda ugly color lol
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3336550743.html -1.8 but high miles on this

Seth1065

17th October 2012, 21:07

No idea of the mileage on the first one but if it is reasonable that may be the one, if he has the paper work on what he said it has done to it it is worth a look at least, I would pass on teh other two as that is a LOT of miles on both

Myah's Daddy

17th October 2012, 21:28

The first one would be the only one worth checking. The second has been repainted a non stock color, and the third the seller is a liar, his car isn't a SE, and have very questionable mods with the wheels. However if you could get it for $2000 or less, factor in the $1000 hardtop and if you got a year out of the car you did great.

NickPic83

17th October 2012, 21:40

sorry forgot to add 1st one has 157k on it and he just text me new price of $2600

NickPic83

17th October 2012, 21:42

what do u mean by the questionable mods with the wheels?. the 3rd one has koni shocks, FM stops and coil overs with an extra set he said he would give me. he did the timing belt and water pump

for the 3rd car. if i got it cheap and down the road i wanna drop in a fresher 1.8L are they usually easy to find and how hard is the swap on these cars

rx8rotary

17th October 2012, 22:11

I will differ with group here - if I could get the 3rd one for $2000 I would buy it - the hardtop is worth a grand and so you would be buying a $1000 black and tan Miata. Leaves a lot of money for engine replacement.

BOB

zen

18th October 2012, 00:23

My pick is the third one. MD is right, it is certainly not an SE. The B&T with different equipment was a quasi SE in 92. This one is not close, but it still is the best of the lot. An NA8*, not an SNC*, and it has the HT. The HT appears OEM, so Bob is right. It is worth a grand. And HT's don't rust, so it will still be worth ~$1k in a couple years. The first one may be worth consideration if the miles are way sub100k, but the head gasket and headstuds make me think this thing was blown up. -that, and the asking price is $2k higher ($3.5k v. $2.5k+HT).

* Not that either NA6 or SNC is a huge deal (some of us like NA6 over NA8), but they at least deserve mention.

NickPic83

19th October 2012, 09:06

Goin to look at the 3rd one either tonight or this weekend. He has lots of extra parts like coil overs, headlights, brake pads and rotors etc...soft top is less than 2 years old. Its sounding better. Still need to get him to come down on price more. We r at 2400

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

rx8rotary

19th October 2012, 10:37

^^^ dont expect a person to do a lot of negotiating over the phone. When you get there and if you like the car, I bet $2000 will buy it.

BOB

NickPic83

19th October 2012, 10:39

O yeah I am not done negotiating I just like to warm him up first lol. Any specifics I should look for in person with these cars other than the obvious general things?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

19th October 2012, 19:59

3rd was a major dissapointment. lots of rot. every panel on the car was dented. every gasket in the motor leaked, radiator started leaking while i was there. airbag sensor was bad, headlights and brakes all needed replacing. i will give it one thing it handled great!

here is another one i am looking at now. hoping i can get him to drop in price. what do u guys think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330810005047

clewlew

19th October 2012, 21:07

I would run away. Without even getting into it's track car history, the M wheels are gone as well as the seats and it has rocker rust. You can do better for the money.

NickPic83

19th October 2012, 21:20

seems most of these in the NE have some rocker rust. its a matter of how bad. not really looking for a collector car here either although i wish it did have the stock M seats

Myah's Daddy

19th October 2012, 21:33

seems most of these in the NE have some rocker rust. its a matter of how bad. not really looking for a collector car here either although i wish it did have the stock M seats

If you can see the rust it is bad, real bad. They rust from the inside out so if you can see it, that is just where it broke through. I would only recommend buying a Miata with rust under one condition. That is you are going to winter drive it. If you are not going to ever don't get one with rust, there are way to many rust free examples to consider one with. Now if you are going to winter drive it, don't pay a premium for a rust free example as your car after a winter will have rust and your premium is shot.

NickPic83

19th October 2012, 21:45

yeah i will DD it in the winter unless its snowing or gonna snow that day. i will be scraping any surface rust and using amsoil HD metal protector to coat eveything after i purchase the car. i will try to prevent any rusting as much as possible just like all my vehicles.

what do u think of the ebay car otherwise?

Myah's Daddy

19th October 2012, 22:07

I would not want someones old track rat for a DD

Vince3

20th October 2012, 02:02

Great advice.

NickPic83

20th October 2012, 20:24

new one. this car looks clean! its listed as a "M" but from what i read the 94M only came in montego blue and this car has fabric seats. so that may be BS unless i am missing something. i need to talk to them monday and see whats been replaced and if its got the torsen rear or not. looks good online pice is a bit more than i want to spend but if it sounds good enough maybe i can put 30-$100 bills(or less at 1st) on the table and they will go for it.

http://www.brickcitymotors.com/vehicle-details/fe571a4ef76a87409ba0a439708bb9e8/

NickPic83

20th October 2012, 20:25

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3291870911.html

just got email from this one i can take it for $1500. hmmmm

rx8rotary

20th October 2012, 20:30

http://www.brickcitymotors.com/vehicle-details/fe571a4ef76a87409ba0a439708bb9e8/

Not a bad looking car but NOT and M edition. Also, since every picture has the headlights popped up, makes me think the motors are bad.

BOB

rx8rotary

20th October 2012, 20:30

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3291870911.html

just got email from this one i can take it for $1500. hmmmm

If the car checks out that might be a deal? See how long ago the TB/WP were done and make sure it has good power through the power band. Being a SNC car, crankshaft failure is a possibility

BOB

NickPic83

20th October 2012, 20:34

yeah i am really looking for the 1.8 and something not as ugly as that 90 but for 1500 if its not a POS i think its a decent deal. what do u think about the red 94? if it checks out and i get it 3k or less that would be a good deal i think?

side note~~~thanks for sticking with me here and helping me along!

rx8rotary

20th October 2012, 20:39

No problem - that is why we are here.

On the 94, a couple of things stand out to me

1 - aftermarket steering wheel so therefore no airbag. Not a huge deal maybe but probably has an active airbag light on
2 - those door panels looks odd to me plus window crank missing on drivers door
3 - as I mentioned above, I suspect headlight motors are bad
4 - no picture of top - makes me a little suspicious.
5 - without records, assume you need to do TB/WP soon so factor into price.

At $3000 it would probably be okay.

NickPic83

20th October 2012, 20:53

1 - yeah i kinda figured that. is there a way to get disable the light for it? would it give me a problem with inspection?
2 - good spot on the window crank, i didnt catch that. probably a cheap fix.
3 - its a dealer so i would think they have to makes sure something like that works. but i will be sure to check
4 - yeah i hope the top is decent.
5 - yeah them saying its done and it actually being done are 2 different things. what does the TB/WP job run all said and done?

rx8rotary

20th October 2012, 21:02

1 - there are ways to disable the light (you can search the forum) but I would think it would be an issue with a state inspection
2 - yea, crank handles should be cheap
3 - the lights probably work so that would be all that would be required from a safety standpoint so they could sell it without the motors working
4 - check it closely
5 - around $750 if you have it done

NickPic83

20th October 2012, 21:14

i wonder if they can sell it with the airbag light on... maybe the previous owner disabled it.

ill have to search around on the TB/WP and see how hard the install is. i am pretty handy with cars/trucks and getting better. if i cant handle i got some friends that can help.

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 11:00

here is another, a 5 speed 1.6. needs a top, air bag sensor, and one headlight motor. gonna look at it today.

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3353903558.html

Myah's Daddy

21st October 2012, 11:59

I think you would be way farther ahead finding another $1K before you got the car, and bought a better taken care of 150K mile $3K car, and not a over priced $1500 car that need $2K in work to make it safe and driveable.

rx8rotary

21st October 2012, 13:59

^^^ what he said

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 14:35

I thin I'll still check it out but I am thinking the 94 I posted earlier is a better buy.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 14:36

If the car checks out that might be a deal? See how long ago the TB/WP were done and make sure it has good power through the power band. Being a SNC car, crankshaft failure is a possibility

BOB

Said TB/WP was done within 10k miles

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 15:26

this one is not far off in price and has LOW miles

Myah's Daddy

21st October 2012, 15:38

this one is not far off in price and has LOW miles

If you can live with a white car that is a MUCH better car, and really the only one worth going to check out. Bring $3000 in cash in one pocket and $500 in the other. If the is as nice as it seems pull out the $3000 and see what he says, say that is all you have and see what happens. My guess is someplace between $3 and $3.5 will buy the car. With those miles I would say it wasn't driven in the winter, probably not in rain much. Save those steel wheels for winter tires if you are going to winter drive this car, pick up a set of daisys for $150 for your summer tires and you will have a nice car.

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 19:33

here is another, a 5 speed 1.6. needs a top, air bag sensor, and one headlight motor. gonna look at it today.

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3353903558.html

well i looked at this one and the car ran great. def needs a top, 1 headlight motor, and the air bag light which is blinking 10x which i think it means the module needs to be replaced. interior was perfect and the exterior had a couple blemishes and the red was faded in the normal spots. car seemed to pull as hard as it should and handled well. brakes were good. he seemed to have most maintenance items covered except the air bag module which he said started a couple months ago and the headlight motor which he says he only takes it our during the day on the weekend as his wife wont ride in it so he uses it to run errands on the weekends. if these others dont check out i think this will be my plan B.

zen

21st October 2012, 19:52

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=96783839&listingRecNum=1&criteria=prMx%3D5000%26sf1Dir%3DDESC%26prMn%3D0%26 mkId%3D20073%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D21460%26rd%3D75 %26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-pseudoPrice%26zc%3D10980%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dpric e%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26rpp %3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=national&listType=1
+1 to MD. This looks like a car which should be pursued. Just for fun, I went to the dealers website to see more about this car. What I found is something that should help you when it comes to pricing negotiation. Here is the dealer description:
Minnow Motors website:Driver Air Bag, Air Conditioning, Alloy Wheels, Cruise Control, Passenger Air Bag, Rear Window Defroster, Leather Seats, Power Door Locks, Power Mirrors, Power Windows, Power Steering, Tilt Wheel.
Now, from what I can see in their pictures, the description lies about (at least) the following:
Minnow Motors website:Driver Air Bag, Air Conditioning, Alloy Wheels, Cruise Control, Passenger Air Bag, Rear Window Defroster, Leather Seats, Power Door Locks, Power Mirrors, Power Windows, Power Steering, Tilt Wheel.
So, of those 12 claimed features, the car has, at most, 5. I don't think it has power mirrors or cruise. So, 3 of 12. It may not even have AC.

While these may be just dishonest, I would stress that the failure to include the advertised life saving safety device (the pass. airbag) is at least a violation of New York State motor vehicle safety law. At most, it would be a criminal offense. Now, the dealer must be careful to correct this possible regulatory or criminal violation without tampering with evidence. If statute allows, you could buy this car and the seller could stop violating the law.

Myah's Daddy

21st October 2012, 20:27

I did not notice all the stuff they say the car has, but doesn't. Use that to help you get the $3K or maybe better price. Take a print out of the ad, ask them to show you the defrost, then the locks, then the tilt wheel, you get the picture. As they can't show you stuff, say because the car doesn't have... you must have the car priced at a value with that stuff, I will give you $X because it doesn't have... This is not a car to walk away from without being serious about purchasing if you can live with the white (I keep saying that because I couldn't do it) compared to EVERY other car you have posted.

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 21:08

so out of what i listed so far, which is top 3 and in what order?
i am thinking

1. 93 white http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1

2. 94 red http://www.brickcitymotors.com/vehicle-details/fe571a4ef76a87409ba0a439708bb9e8/

3. 90 red http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3353903558.html

rx8rotary

21st October 2012, 21:18

Then probably 1

Then 3 only because i don't have pictures

In all honesty I don't like 1 because I don't like white cars and I hate luggage racks on Miatas so I am biased against it.

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 21:28

i HATE luggage racks too but its got very low miles. i can live with white. i like white not really on the miata but if i add enough black on it that could help it along

rx8rotary

21st October 2012, 21:39

One word of advice from a guy who is an avid car collector - don't settle on something that you arent sure about just because you want a Miata. There are too many Miatas out there to settle - maybe not for sale this week but will be in the next month.

I don't buy anything that I have to make the statement - "I can live with it" because I did that a couple of times and found out I couldn't live with it and ended up losing money just to get rid of it. There are cars in my collection now that I searched for years to find the right one. Be patient.

BOB

zen

21st October 2012, 21:42

1, because of the decent miles. (although I must advise you to limit UV radiation)

2 but a long ways back due to the high miles, the missing airbag, the missing window crank (if the owner wouldn't spend $2.00, what else did they cheap out on?)

3. By the time you fix the airbag light and the window, you could pay for #1.

edit: the luggage rack can be fixed next year (or later) by buying a white trunk lid from the junkyard. You don't have to "live with it".

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 21:45

very good point and i think i will be thinking 2 then 1 then 3 for now. ill keep looking and not settle

NickPic83

21st October 2012, 21:48

1, because of the decent miles. (although I must advise you to limit UV radiation)

2 but a long ways back due to the high miles, the missing airbag, the missing window crank (if the owner wouldn't spend $2.00, what else did they cheap out on?)

3. By the time you fix the airbag light and the window, you could pay for #1.

1.what do u meant by limit uv's

2. i see what u mean. ill keep that in mind

3. i agree it looks like the new top, module, and head light motor i will be in just under 1k. not the price of 1 or 2 but its close

zen

22nd October 2012, 02:02

1.what do u meant by limit uv's
Mazda had a problem with the white paint it used on Miatas for 90-93. The paint has experienced an adhesion failure that caused it to peel off in sheets. You will see many White NA6s around with large bare spots. Sometimes, the paint already peeled and the owners had the cars repainted. That solved the problem.

Some white NAs have never had the problem. That is because the car was kept in a garage its whole life. There is a theory that the adhesion failure is sparked by the exposure to UV radiation. Ergo, if the car is regularly shielded from the sun, the paint will last. If not, then not.

NickPic83

22nd October 2012, 06:02

Mazda had a problem with the white paint it used on Miatas for 90-93. The paint has experienced an adhesion failure that caused it to peel off in sheets. You will see many White NA6s around with large bare spots. Sometimes, the paint already peeled and the owners had the cars repainted. That solved the problem.

Got it thank u. Makes sense because I saw a couple white ones online that had issues with the paint. So that explains that

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

asf6

22nd October 2012, 07:55

Two pieces of (free) advice, please feel free to ignore/disagree:

Having just survived a frontal offset collision with an SUV, I would recommend a 94+ (two airbags).

Don't be afraid to widen your search area to more southern states. Every miata I have bought involved a plane flight or a road trip. Its only about 4 hrs from the City to VA/DC/MD, and we get a lot less snow and salt down here.

good luck!

NickPic83

22nd October 2012, 08:17

Two pieces of (free) advice, please feel free to ignore/disagree:

Having just survived a frontal offset collision with an SUV, I would recommend a 94+ (two airbags).

good luck!

As far as the year, my first choice is a 94-95. For traveling I wouldn't mind a couple hour drive but any more the car needs to be a very good price because the plane will cut into the budget I have for the car.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

22nd October 2012, 19:43

so out of what i listed so far, which is top 3 and in what order?
i am thinking

1. 93 white http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1
wont move on price either. they actually listed it on another site for $500 more. im out on this one
2. 94 red http://www.brickcitymotors.com/vehicle-details/fe571a4ef76a87409ba0a439708bb9e8/
wont move on price and is still tryin to say its a special addition but cant even lie to make a name or why its a SE. im out on this one too

3. 90 red http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3353903558.html so far this one is it. i would have to get it cheap because it needs some things.

i got Q's in with these 2 to get more info
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3302610547.html
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/3350672569.html

still waiting for a decent 94 tho. i know i shouldnt worry too much but i am haunted by the threads i read about the SNC and i really like the upgrades they made in 94

Myah's Daddy

22nd October 2012, 19:54

No offense, but seeing that you are so stuck on getting some rice stance car, just get one done for $2000 and don't ruin a otherwise nice car we are trying to steer you to.

NickPic83

22nd October 2012, 20:03

not sure where the rice is? because of the rims? pretty sure most cars here are on coilovers like the one i listed. wheels can be changed easily. what else makes it a reicer....?i am not looking for riced out cars its just what available. dont assume thats what i like. trust me i am a truck guy who is a border line redneck but want a fun DD that hopefully when funds get better i can start turning into a street/track car. i appreciate the help i am getting here but i have no control of what others do to their car and then try to sell it the way it is. these are my options that are in my price range. please dont false assume i am not stuck on anything but getting a NA miata for 3k or less....

srsly maybe cuz i am new with these i am not seeing it. but what makes them so rice besides the horrible offset on the white one's rims. the red one is low but arent most coilovers adjustable. i figured coilovers is a plus because it would handle better.

NickPic83

22nd October 2012, 20:08

MD i could say i want this one

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3309541657.html

Myah's Daddy

22nd October 2012, 20:39

MD i could say i want this one

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3309541657.html

Yes you could ;)

zen

23rd October 2012, 01:05

No offense, but seeing that you are so stuck on getting some rice stance car, just get one done for $2000 and don't ruin a otherwise nice car we are trying to steer you to.
not sure where the rice is? because of the rims? pretty sure most cars here are on coilovers like the one i listed. wheels can be changed easily. what else makes it a reicer....?

MD is right to get the feeling that NickPic83 is looking at a ricer, since many that have been suggested have that look. From NickPic83's post, it seems that he is just looking for a class 1 NA (a POS). It just happens that most class 1 NAs (POSs) are also riced out. To explain what I mean about a class 1 NA, review tom's thorough evaluation of the NAs out there:

There are four classes of first gen Miatas:

The absolute POS for $1500 that will never be right, will require gobs of money to get it close and will still look/smell/act like a POS

The driver for $2500-$3000 that absolutely needs a minimum of $1500 of deferred maintenance (TB/WP/Shocks/Fluids/Radiator/Belts/Hoses/ETC), will have relatively high mileage but will be a decent car when you're done wrenching on it (that $1500 is if you can DIY, double the number for paid labor). You'll have $4000-$4500 into it (plus some blood donations from wrenching - it's an absolute with a Miata, the powers demand it) and it will be worth $4000-$4500 and probably service you comfortably for a number of years. It won't win any beauty contests or car shows but will be a faithful companion.

The third category is the low mileage NA (~75K), all maintenance history, perhaps one or two owners, no immediate large needs but some looming in the future. Good cosmetics, no mechanical issues, good rubber, good top, etc.. It will run $4500-$6000 (depends on package, color, location), will have everything you want, looks real good when it's all polished up, might even place in a car show or two and will likely still be worth $4500 after you put another 75K on it and keep all the maintenance current.

Finally is the anal class Miata. Less than 20K miles, one owner, garage kept, all the original paperwork, maintenance records for everything down to refilling the windshield washer fluid. Still a 9/10 both outside and inside, no paint fade, no surface rust, no smells, pristine top, new and good quality rubber, etc.. A true needs nothing car that looks almost showroom new. It will run from $8K-$15K depending upon model. IMHO, unless you're a collector, it's a waste of money because it will depreciate rapidly with miles. The third category mentioned above is a much better purchase for a driver.

I'd never buy a car in the first category and if that's all the money I had, I'd ride a bike until I had more - literally. The second category ends up being as costly as the third but you can take your time on some of the items and spread the cost out. The third category is where you should buy if you have the cash handy (or a really nice relative who will lend it to you). It will almost always be cheaper in the long run.

The fourth category should be left for us dweebs who seem to believe these things are collectible ;)

NickPic83

23rd October 2012, 06:54

Quote:
Originally Posted by Myah's Daddy
No offense, but seeing that you are so stuck on getting some rice stance car, just get one done for $2000 and don't ruin a otherwise nice car we are trying to steer you to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPic83
not sure where the rice is? because of the rims? pretty sure most cars here are on coilovers like the one i listed. wheels can be changed easily. what else makes it a reicer....?

zen
MD is right to get the feeling that NickPic83 is looking at a ricer, since many that have been suggested have that look. From NickPic83's post, it seems that he is just looking for a class 1 NA (a POS). It just happens that most class 1 NAs (POSs) are also riced out. To explain what I mean about a class 1 NA, review tom's thorough evaluation of the NAs out there:

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4416
There are four classes of first gen Miatas:

The absolute POS for $1500 that will never be right, will require gobs of money to get it close and will still look/smell/act like a POS

zen i think u see whats goin on. thats basically what i am trying to explain. with my budget these are my options..they just happen to be riced out. i kinda think i can take some of the rice out of them and sell the parts get stock or nice replacement parts and maybe even have some extra cash left over. i reall want the "driver" but they are haard to find as well. i think a couple i posted are a "driver" but they have the horrible offset wheels and lowered to the point of not being practical on the streets.

now this is primarily gonna be a fun commuter so i will not sit on my budget and raise it. the primary purpose of this car is to keep the miles off my pride and joy truck and help with the gas bill. little by little i will work on the miata to make it look and perform the way it should but the miata is not my #1 so i will not spend alot on it at this point.

again i HATE rice! lol:D

rx8rotary

23rd October 2012, 07:13

I am not sure why you guys are saying he wants a ricer. Aftermarket wheels don't make a car a ricer and lowering it doesn't make it a ricer - many guys on this do rum have done the same thing to their cars and have never been accused of creating a ricer.

Guess I am confused by that statement

BOB

NickPic83

23rd October 2012, 07:46

Guess I am confused by that statement

BOB

Thank u. At least I am not the only one confused by all this.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

moefosho

23rd October 2012, 12:00

Thank u. At least I am not the only one confused by all this.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Some of the people on this forum are on medicare. Car culture has changed. Nothing wrong with upgrading your wheels/tires/suspension.

NickPic83

23rd October 2012, 14:06

I am looking at one with a bad back plastic window in the soft top. Can that window be replaced or should the whole top be replaced.

Also how much does a place normally charge to install a new top? I looked over the how to's it kinds seems very tedious and should be done in warm climate. Its getting cold here in NY and I don't have a garage to keep the top warm to work with it. At least if I pay a shop its indoors and climate controlled.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

rx8rotary

23rd October 2012, 14:12

^^^ depends on the overall condition of the top. If the top is fairly new, then yes but since the window is probably faded, old, etc, the top is probably not going to do well with all the work requried to replace the window.

Tops runs around $400 here for installation (in addition to the price of the top)

But with that being said, if I were to replace a top, I would go with a glass rear window rather than the OEM plastic.

BOB

NickPic83

23rd October 2012, 14:15

Tops runs around $400 here for installation (in addition to the price of the top)

But with that being said, if I were to replace a top, I would go with a glass rear window rather than the OEM plastic.

BOB

Yeah I gotta look into the tops more and see how much more the glass is. Looking at a car in the for sale section and its more than I want to spend but not by much but....the soft top window leaks so that kinda jacks up the price to too much lol

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

24th October 2012, 13:47

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3300432126.html

Here is another. I know the riceland coilovers suck but they must be a little better than stock. Tb/wp done at 90k. Says soft top only leaks in car wash... he is down to $3500. Should i worry about the snc issue with the 93? What do u guys think?

Also looking at the 96 triple black in the f/s section here locates in pa.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

The Driver

24th October 2012, 14:01

Guess I am confused by that statement

BOB

Agreed. My car is lowered (FCM Coilovers) and currently has the BBS that were on my 95M while I get 6UL 15X8's. Different? A little bit. Riced out? Not in your life! :cool:

rx8rotary

24th October 2012, 15:04

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3300432126.html

Is that a fake wood dash overlay ? :eek: Not a bad car for $3500 given the HT. And no worries about SNC - only 90s and early 91s need apply.

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/3300432126.htmlAlso looking at the 96 triple black in the f/s section here locates in pa.

Reconstructed title - enough said.

BOB

NickPic83

24th October 2012, 16:33

Is that a fake wood dash overlay ? :eek: Not a bad car for $3500 given the HT. And no worries about SNC - only 90s and early 91s need apply.

O good I couldn't remember which crank it had. How about the white paint? Was that an issue for all years? The wood dash has got to go! Still have some more questions to ask the owner and also need to see pics of under the hood. It having under 100k miles is a big plus and the cheap coil over kit is a plus I guess and I do like the wheels. The only thing besides being above my budget is that its a kid that owns it. He told me he needs money for goin away to school so I am not sure how the car was treated...

Reconstructed title - enough said.

BOB

Yeah the only thing about that is the guy that owns it owns a body shop and that car was his daily. Also if u look at the under hood pics I don't think I've seen a cleaner NON modded engine in a NA. He is a miata guy who owns more than one which makes me think he fixed it right.

Both cars are 2 hours plus from me so I am trying to get all the info and pics I can before I make the trip out.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

24th October 2012, 18:39

got some good pics of the white 93. he sent me pics of all the spots where the miata would usually rest and there is no a spec. he also sent me some engine bay pics that i requested. looks like lots of good condition parts, radiator, hoses, belts. i dont see any traces of leaks.

u guys see anything to worry about?

http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/ii423/NickPic83/enginebay2.jpg

http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/ii423/NickPic83/enginebay1.jpg

NickPic83

25th October 2012, 09:13

Waiting on answers on the 93 on a few things but I think I may take the 4 hour round trip this weekend to check it out and hopefully can get him closer to the 3k I really only wanna spend.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

NickPic83

25th October 2012, 21:52

hoping to talk this guy down. from the pics i saw the car is very well kept. trying to have him send me under hood shots too so i can determine if anything is goin on there. this guy is 4 hours away but if i can talk him down a little this may be the best one yet.

the soft top looks great besides the window. i got a few boat canvas guys around me i wonder if they can do something with the window...

"Hey thanks for looking

originally from Florida
Black 1995 Mazda Miata, car is very clean for a 17 year old car, not perfect but black paint still shines, always waxed and maintained
105k miles, always garaged, undercarriage is spotless, engine bay is clean no excessive oil, grease etc.
upgraded stereo cd player with face plate and sub woofer
timing belt, water pump, replaced, starts right up and runs and drives great!, no smoke etc
new rims and tires +25mm with 205/50/15 tires they are 15 x 8" wide
only needs soft top, does NOT leak but rear window is cracked the plastic gets brittle in the cold and broke the other day
most boat and or auto stitching businesses can put new 3m vinyl plastic stitch and seal for around $150
comes with wind screen and hard tonneu cover cover ( aftermarket )
as well as a car cover
clean interior with stainless door sill plates , seat bolsters are not ripped, dash is not cracked or weathered
sharp car no rust !

4,000 buys it"