Seniors Not Acting Their Age: A wilderness expedition on Grand Cascapédia (2024)

I don’t have a bucket list. At my age, my singular outdoor objective is longevity. If I had one, the Grand Cascapédia River on the Gaspe Peninsula in eastern Quebec would be on it.

On several occasions while driving along the beautiful river that flows east out of the Chic Choc Mountains on my way to winter skiing and mountaineering adventures, I speculated about the possibility of paddling it. In 2011, a group of us passed the Cascapédia at high water en route to a Bonaventure River expedition, which parallels it. Although the Bonaventure is more renowned, the extremely scenic mountain river looked majestic and exciting.

For several years, I’ve paddled many of Maine’s northern rivers in May with a group of friends. The supply of appealing in-state rivers nearly exhausted, we needed to expand our horizons. The Cascapédia came to mind. Actually, to be precise, it came to my mind.

The Cascapédia is one of the most famous salmon fishing rivers in the world. However, it’s very difficult to find information about paddling it. After quite a bit of research, I stumbled onto an indication that an old paddling friend, Andy Abello, was a veteran of a Cascapédia River expedition.

Contact with Andy was very productive. Not only had he paddled the Cascapédia but wanted to join me on a trip. Andy lavished praise on the Grand Cascapédia, calling it an exceptional tripping experience. He provided topographical maps of the entire itinerary and also shared information on a campground at the mouth of the river in New Richmond that would run shuttle.

I found a website that measures the Grand Cascapédia water level and provides a record of flow. Late May and early June are when the historic peak levels occur. Based on the Bonaventure endeavor, I concluded that might be before the evil blackflies arrive.

Four of the usual suspects wanted to participate. We began monitoring water levels and weather. What appeared to be an optimum combination of the two was identified in late May. A trip was on!

Unfortunately, Andy was unable to join us. We were disappointed to lose his companionship and knowledge. However, we had paddled unknown rivers before and Andy had provided a wealth of information.

Five of us met at a motel in New Richmond after a rainy, eight-hour drive. We immediately drove to Camping New Richmond Campground to meet with the owner and our shuttle driver, Bruno. The very likeable, can-do guy encouragingly reported that the river was high and blackflies doubtful. We loaded our boats on his trailer in anticipation of an early departure the next morning.

Doing business with Bruno has additional benefits. Paddlers can take off the river at the campground and vehicles are secure during the voyage.

The 60-mile drive along the Cascapédia and deep into the eastern Chic Choc Mountains to remote Lac Huard is nothing short of spectacular. Bruno entertained us with a bevy of amusing river tales during the journey. On a somber note, I began feeling mildly ill.

The 1-mile paddle across the picturesque mountain tarn under partly sunny skies was quickly accomplished. We entered a fast-moving stream called Branch Cascapédia where several easy rapids were encountered. A couple of sizeable tributaries soon joined, forming Grand Cascapédia.

A strong tailwind pushed us along at a very brisk pace. In fact, we were moving so fast, I had difficulty identifying our location on the topo maps. The rapids increased in length, frequency and complexity but were otherwise very stimulating and manageable.

The rugged beauty of the area is truly remarkable. Eagles were plentiful and signs of wildlife abundant. The miles quickly passed and late afternoon was almost unexpected when it arrived. Since the winds had increased in strength, we sought a forested campsite that provided protection from the gale. An excellent location was located in a stand of hardwoods and alders on the north side of an extensive gravel beach.

Settling in for the evening, we contemplated the coming days. The word “falls” was written in a section of the river on the next topo map, so we needed to be on the alert for that unknown eventuality. I was feeling worse.

My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates more whitewater exploits on the six best river expeditions in Maine.

Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available atnorthcountrypress.com/maine-al-frescoor in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.comor he can be reached atronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.

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