Argentina, a venerable wine-producing region of the Americas, boasts a rich history of wine-making that traces back to the 16th century. This historical depth and its recent emergence onto the world wine stage make Argentina's wine industry a fascinating subject. Recently, I had the privilege of engaging with key figures in this industry, including Magdalena Pesce (MP), CEO of Wines of Argentina, Susana Balbo (SB), founder of Susana Balbo Wines and former President of Wines of Argentina, and Juan Palomo, (JP) of the Argentine Bulk Wine Chamber. Our conversation delved into the current state of Argentina's wine industry and allowed us to savor some of Argentina's diverse wine offerings.
Argentina, the fifth-largest wine producer in the world and the leading wine producer in South America is a treasure trove of diverse wine offerings. Its wine industry is a blend of high-quality and bulk wines crafted from a wide range of varietals and unique terroirs. This diversity offers wine enthusiasts and potential buyers a thrilling journey through interesting new takes on traditional grape varieties and its own, locally developed quasi-indigenous grape varieties.
The country has four main wine-production regions. Mendoza is Argentina's most famous and prolific wine region, accounting for approximately 70% of the country's wine production. Its high-altitude vineyards and diverse microclimates produce world-class Malbecs.
Located in the northwest, Salta houses some of the world's highest vineyards, particularly in the sub-region of Cafayate. The region is known for its Torrontés, a distinctive aromatic white wine.
Patagonia, a southern region, is known for its cool-climate varietals, including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The area's long growing season and unique climate contribute to extended hang time and the development of complex flavors.
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At the other extreme is San Juan, characterized by a warm climate. This region produces robust red wines, including Syrah and Bonarda, as well as finely crafted white wines.
Malbec and Torrontés are the two main grape varieties cultivated in Argentina. Malbec, a Bordeaux transplant, Argentina's flagship red varietal, is deeply colored, featuring intense fruit flavors of fresh plum and dark fruit and smooth tannins. Argentinian Malbec, particularly from Mendoza, has gained a worldwide following.
Torrontés is a uniquely Argentine white wine variety that almost qualifies as an indigenous grape variety. It's a cross between Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica. The Criolla Chica was the first grape variety introduced by the Spanish in the New World. It is called Pais in Chile and is California's historic Mission grape. Criolla Chica may be a descendant of Listán Prieto, a grape variety widely grown in Spain during the 16th century.
Torrontés has several clones, with Torrontés Riojano being the most widely planted. Torrontés wines are highly floral and aromatic, featuring aromas of jasmine, orange blossom, and roses, along with notes of stone and tropical fruits notes of lychee, mango, and peach.
Other widely grown grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Bonarda (Douce Noir/Corbeau), and Merlot.
JM: French varietal Malbec has become Argentina's signature grape. What is it about Argentina that causes Malbec to express itself so profoundly?
MP: Argentina has successfully positioned Malbec as a significant player in the global wine scene, rescuing it from obscurity and, thanks to local producers, restoring its prestige to levels it enjoyed two centuries ago. While Malbec is spreading globally, Argentina is perfecting the variety's precision, exploring its performance in different terroirs, and expanding its range of styles.
Argentine Malbec is a versatile and expressive red with pleasant textures. It comes in various forms, from raw oaky versions to floral and herbal incarnations, from extremely precise and measured to wild and boisterous. Altitude is a critical factor in understanding the wide range of choices offered by Malbec in Argentina, with its upper limit in Mendoza (Cuyo) between 1,350 m/4,430 ft and 1,500 m/4,920ft and the highest altitude at which it's grown is 3,329 m/10,920/ft in Jujuy (to the north). This factor offers a universe of different options for the consumer.
JM: What other red grape varietals in Argentina show the same promise as Malbec?
MP: Argentina boasts vast natural, climatic, geographic, cultural, and varietal diversity, consolidating the country's place on the global wine scene. We find great potential in Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. Although the number of hectares compared with Malbec is small, they show excellent development potential.
JM: Argentina has no indigenous grape varieties, although Torrontes, given its long history in the region, comes close. Historically, Torrontes was used for low-cost, bulk wine production. Does Torrontés have the potential to craft fine wines? Is there anyone in Argentina producing high-quality wines from Torrontés?
SB: Argentina indeed has a native variety produced by crossing two European varieties, the Muscat of Alexandria and the Listán Prieto. This natural pollination, which occurred in Argentina approximately 140 years ago, resulted in this grape variety called Torrontés, which is entirely Argentinian. Therefore, it is considered a native variety that produces very high-quality wines, especially when barrel fermented.
At our winery, we are performing vertical tastings of ten vintages of this variety fermented in barrels, proving the incredibly high aging potential of Torrontés and the excellent quality it can develop. Furthermore, we are experimenting with Torrontés in extremely high-altitude locations, yielding exceptional characteristics in wines.
JM: Besides Torrontés, are there any white grape varietals in Argentina with the same potential as Malbec to be a signature Argentinian wine varietal?
SB: As a winemaker with 42 years of experience crafting wines and specializing in Torrontés, I do not doubt that Torrontés is the variety that has been able to claim, among white wines, the same place that Malbec currently holds for reds, mainly because it is unique to Argentina, and it is not presently cultivated anywhere else.
However, some varieties, like Chardonnay, result in high-quality aging wines with a unique style and mineral character. This occurs when Chardonnay or other varieties are grown in very high-altitude areas like Gualtallary and San Pablo, in calcareous soils, and significant temperature variations are experienced.
The fact that Argentina still lacks more white wines in the market is only a decision made by companies or wineries: it does not mean that its terroir does not have the potential to produce high-quality white wines.
JM: What can Argentinian wine producers and their respective trade associations do to move Argentinian wines into the global upper echelon of fine wine?
MP: The Argentine viticultural sector shares a vision of sustainable, diverse, and inclusive viticulture, implementing exemplary practices and initiatives with a genuinely beneficial social, environmental, and economic impact. Also, our wine professionals are building a new national identity, trusting their methods and the potential of their terroirs to produce exceptional wines.
Thanks to the industry's efforts, Vino Argentino has become known for world-class quality in the high-end or premium wine segments over time, positioning itself as the best value-for-money option in the mid-level price segments.
The systematic work of globally renowned tasters and the increased frequency of high scores, medals, and awards for Argentine labels have helped to consolidate Argentine wine's international reputation for quality. This reputation is enhanced by ties with internationally prestigious bodies such as the Institute of Masters of Wine and Europe and America chapters of the Court of Master Sommeliers. Heightened interest from leaders of global viticulture reflects not just Argentina's reputation on the wine scene but also the evolution and maturity of the country's industry and its resulting potential and attractiveness.
JM: Historically, Argentina was a significant producer of low-cost bulk wines. Is this still a viable market for Argentinian wine producers?
JP: Bulk wine boasts an excellent price-quality ratio for the different types of wines (generic and varietal). Over the last three years, Argentine bulk wine exports have predominantly focused on varietal wines (+80% of the volume), and over 90% in the previous two years. Quality has always prevailed in the different price ranges.
The main difficulties in achieving greater international penetration of varietal bulk wines are related to the high tariffs in destination markets, resulting from the lack of free trade agreements or preferential tariff treatments, along with the adverse macroeconomic conditions the Argentine economy has been experiencing in recent years.
Below are tasting notes on a selection of Argentinian wines, all available in North America.
Durigutti, Proyecto Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, 12.5% ABV, 750 ml
Durigutti is located in the Luján de Cuyo region of Mendoza. The winery, known for its innovative approach and focus on terroir-driven wines, produces a range of exceptional wines, including their notable Cabernet Franc.
Luján de Cuyo, situated at the foothills of the Andes, is renowned for its ideal conditions for viticulture, including high altitude, ample sunlight, and a dry climate, which contribute to the distinct character of the wines produced in this region.
The Proyecto Las Compuertas Cabernet Franc is incredibly fruity on the nose. It features an array of complex aromas, especially red and black fruit notes of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry. There are also herbal aromas of bell pepper, dried herbs, and subtle hints of wood spices, vanilla, and well-seasoned cedar.
On the palate, the full-bodied wine shows a pronounced palate weight, vibrant acidity, and a distinctive backbone of well-ripened tannins. There are ripe, black fruit flavors of fresh plum, cassis, and cherry, along with herbal notes of tobacco leaf, graphite, and a touch of earthiness. The finish is long and fruity. This wine can be paired with virtually any meal.
Colomé, Auténtico Malbec 2021, Valle Calchaqui, Salta, 14.5% ABV, 750 ml
Bodega Colomé produces wines from the high-altitude terroir of the Calchaquí Valley. The wine is sourced from grapes grown in vineyards at altitudes ranging from 2,300 m/7,545 ft to 3,111 m/10,206ft above sea level. The high elevations experience intense sunlight and significant diurnal temperature variation, resulting in grapes with concentrated flavors and balanced acidity.
The Auténtico Malbec is exceptionally floral and aromatic on the nose, a common feature of Argentinian wines grown at high altitudes. It's expressive, featuring blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry aromas, floral notes of violet, hints of spice, earth, and a subtle minerality.
The palate is full-bodied, layered, and robust, with aromas of plum, blackberry, and cassis fruit. It has a pronounced tannic backbone and vibrant acidity accompanied by notes of black pepper, licorice, and a touch of cocoa. The finish is long, with lingering prune notes and dried black fruit.
This powerful, robust, elegant wine represents Salta's unique, high-altitude terroir.
Salentein La Pampa 1997 Vineyard, San Pablo Malbec 2018, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, 15% ABV, 750 ml
This wine comes from a single, high-altitude vineyard planted in 1997 in the San Pablo subregion of Valle de Uco.
On the nose, the San Pablo Malbec is distinctively fruity, offering a rich and complex "dark fruit" bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, and plum, along with floral notes of violet and hints of fresh herbs. The oak aging adds additional aromas of spice, vanilla, and mocha.
This Malbec is full-bodied and smooth, with a ripe, well-structured tannic backbone on the palate. It features dark fruit notes of cassis and plum, along with flavors of chocolate, black pepper, and a touch of minerality. The finish is long and fruity, accompanied by milk chocolate and black pepper hints.
This wine is capable of long aging. At an average price of $36/bottle, it's easy to cellar.
Piattelli Vineyards, Cab Five, 2020, Cafayate Valley, Salta, 14.8% abv, 750 ml
Piattelli Vineyards produces high-quality wines that showcase the unique terroir of the Cafayate Valley in Salta. The Cab Five 2020 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (61%), Merlot (14%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Malbec (8%), and Ancellotta, (2%).
The Cafayate Valley, situated at 1,700 m/5,600 ft above sea level, is characterized by intense sunlight, cool nights, and well-drained soils.
The Cab Five 2020 is aromatic, fruity, and herbal on the nose. It offers a complex bouquet of ripe dark fruits such as blackberry, black cherry, and plum, along with cassis, tobacco, mint, and eucalyptus notes.
The wine is full-bodied and robust on the palate, with a noticeable backbone of ripe tannins and an excellent balance between the fruit, acidity, and tannins. The dark fruit flavors from the nose, particularly the blackberry and plum notes, along with dark chocolate, black pepper, and a touch of vanilla, carry over.
The finish is long with lingering herbal and black fruit notes.
It is another outstanding wine that pairs well with any meal, particularly with red meat or pasta with red sauce.
Susana Balbo, Signature, Brioso White Blend, 2022, 12% ABV, 750 ml
Susana Balbo's Signature Brioso White Blend 2022 typically includes a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Torrontés, sourced from the Uco Valley in Mendoza. The region's high altitude and unique terroir impart the wine with a fresh and steely/linear character.
On the nose, the Brioso White Blend 2022 is floral and very aromatic, featuring hints of jasmine and orange blossom, citrus fruit aromas of lemon and grapefruit, tropical fruit notes of passion fruit, melon, and pineapple, and a subtle herbal note.
The wine is medium-bodied and well-balanced on the palate, showcasing crisp acidity and a lean, muscular body that features citrus and tropical fruit flavors accompanied by orchard fruit notes of green apple and pear. A portion of the blend aged in oak barrels adds complexity and depth with a hint of minerality and a touch of vanilla. The finish is clean and lingering, with a pleasant aftertaste of citrus zest and white flowers.
Otronia Chardonnay, Patagonia, 2020, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
Otronia is a relatively new but rapidly growing winery from Patagonia's remote and pristine region. The unique climate and terroir of this southernmost wine-producing area in the world feature cool temperatures, strong winds, and a longer growing season, contributing to the wine's complexity and elegance.
On the nose, Otronia Chardonnay 2020 is intensely floral and aromatic. It features citrus fruit aromas of lemon and lime, green apple and pear notes, and a distinct minerality. Oak aging adds delicate aromas of vanilla, almond, and a touch of creamy butter.
The wine is creamy and full-bodied, featuring a crisp acidity and noticeable minerality that balances its fruitiness. There are pronounced citrus and green apple flavors accompanied by stone fruits of peach and apricot and a touch of wood spice. The finish is long and fruity, with lingering notes of citrus zest and well-seasoned oak.
Argentina is a fascinating viticultural region that offers a broad array of wines, compelling, robust reds, and elegant, mineral-laden whites at exceptional prices. There is much to discover here, enough to warrant a trip.
Salud!
